PLEASE DON'T
SAY "PEATY"
Many times, one sees a review of a single malt Scotch whisky describingthe whisky as "peaty." This is not an
accurate descriptor
In
Scotland
, the flavours of the peat rose and permeated the kernels of barley. If one is a hiker or a camper and hasused a campfire, one can recall the smell of wood smoke on one's clothes after a night around the fire. A more mundane memory may include having to wash one's clothes after visiting a smokey pub.
“Peat is not the same everywhere. Consider some of the locations of peat bogs in
Scotland
"
The lowlands and the Speyside areas have deciduous trees-oaks, birches, walnuts, laurels.The ground is covered with ferns and other plant life.This is what has fallen into the peat bogs in that This is what has fallen into the peat bogs in that area for many millennia.“
“Enjoy your single malt. But please, do not describe a whisky as, "peaty."
Orkney
Contrast that with Orkney. In this windswept archipelago near
the arctic circle, trees did not grow. Ferns were not happy there,
either. The peat bogs on Mainland, the central island of Orkney, are
filledwith the plants that have survived there:sawgrass, wildflowers,
and wild herbs.
Islay
Islay bogs have even a more unusual content.
If you stand on
Islay
andlook east across Caol Ila,
the Sound of Islay, toJura, you will see from
the height of the steep shore of Jura that the
sea level once was much higher. The sea was sohigh, in fact, that
duringvarious epochs the seahas covered the ground
which now constitutes Islay's peat bogs.
Amongst the sawgrass and wildflowers, the Islay bogs have
layers of seaweed and tiny animiculae.
Permeating Smoke
When we grill or barbecue meat with a certain
wood, we create a certain flavor in the meat. If I
barbecue shrimp after throwing some lemon grass on the coals, the
shrimp pick up that flavor. If I grill meat on an
apple-wood fire, the grilled meat will present all
of those apple-wood flavors.
If I bake a salmon on a cedar-wood plank,
the salmon picks up theessence of the cedar.
This happens in whiskies, too. In Ardbeg,
Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Caol Ila, Lagavulin,
Laphroaig, andLagavulin (and the beloved
old Port Ellen), the Islay peats instill flavors,
including seaweed into the whisky. Note that I
did not include Bunnahabhain. Its whisky is from peat bogs
north of Inverness, in the northern highlands.
The malted barley is trucked to the distillery.
Bunnahabhain is a lovely whisky, but it has
more in common with in Northern Highland
brethren-Balblair, Clynelish, Dalmore,
Glenmorangie, and Ord-- than it has with the
other Islay distilleries. All of these whiskies
have delicate, subtle flavors, and all of them
carry age well, at least 20 and mostly over 30 years.
Isle of Skye
One of my favorite whiskiesis Talisker, from the
Isle of Skye, which juts out into the northern
Atlantic. Talisker usedto malt its own barley,
malting Skye barley with Skye peat. Because
Skye receives the firs and fiercest brunt of the
fall Atlantic storms, Skyebarley often had to be
picked wet and early,while it still was
somewhat green. Thisbarley would be malted
with peat smoke frombogs somewhat similar
to those on Islay, Orkey,Mull, or Campbeltown,
but without the seaweed.The result was a whisky
with a taste hauntinglyreminiscent of lapsang souchong
tea.